Friday, July 6, 2007

The Baijan...



The Biajan…

So, I’m finally here and started. We arrived in Azerbaijan a week ago. What an intense week it has been…

Peace Corp staff and current volunteers met us at the airport – after about 25 hours of travel time. We immediately got on a bus to go north for Orientation. What was supposed to be a 3 hour bus ride turned into a much longer bus ride. The scenic view as we drove up was astounding. It is a completely different world. Cliché, but true. Driving through the towns, there are little herds of sheep, cows crossing the road, and lots of people. We drove through some of the oil fields… spectacular in its their own way.

Once we got to the Komplex, we checked in, picked up paper work, and settled in for a few days. The days that followed were orientation – more meetings. Health, security, culture, host families, gender roles, PC policies, and language. We had lots of time at night to hang out and look around the complex and play. One night Flora – the Language Coordinator – and the LCFs – language and culture facilitators (Areri’s who stay with us for the next 3 months and show and teach us everything) – taught us Aerbaijani dancing. It was hysterical and fabulous and lovely. The Azeris looked awesome dancing, the Americans, not so much.

On Saturday, orientation ended and we headed back south to our training communities and to move in with our host families. I think everyone was a little subdued with nerves and excitement. The bus dropped us off at our communities and we were picked up by members of our family.

My family is lovely. I am staying with my host mother (ana in Azerbaijani), father (ata), two brothers (gardash), sister (baji), and grandmother (nana). Hospitality is VERY important here – as a guest, they are constantly trying to take care of me. I get a seat of honor in the living room – people will even get up and move if I come in the room. I am always being offered food. The first night, my host brother was asking what I liked. He speaks a little English, but it is still challenging. I struggled to say the few Azeri food words I knew – bread (chorek), cucumber (xiyar), tomato (pomidor), water (su), then he asked about things in English. He asked if I like tea – yes (beli), ice cream – beli!!, and chocolate – beli!!!! Every night since then, they have gotten me a chocolate bar. I am not able to do my own dishes, or even take my plate to the sink if my host mother is around. They are very interested in me, why I am here, and Americans in general. I have used pictures to explain a little about my family and friends – I even have a picture of Payless. Our communications can get comical as we try with our limited skills in each other’s language.

I am living in a small community near the Caspian Sea. If any of you have been to Eastern Europe, you can probably imagine what my post-communist town looks like. For those of you who haven’t, think WW2 ghetto and you are pretty close. Nicer than that, but close. I am living in a tiny apartment with my host family. I have my own room – they all share the other bedroom. There is a living room, a little kitchen and a bathroom. The toilet is a separate room from the sink and tub. I am lucky – I have a western style toilet with decent water pressure. I get to take a bucket bath. They light the water heater for me – it is too dangerous for me to do myself ( their words, not mine), then the water pours into a bucket and I use a scoop to pour it over myself. Needless to say, it has taken some getting used to, but I think I’m getting the hang of it.

Language classes started Monday. I am inching along, retaining a little more each day. I am starting to be able to understand a few words when my family is talking, and can say more to them each day. It is frustrating to need help from Muzaffar, my LCF, to do just about anything in the community. I feel like I need a translator and a babysitter just to be able to get lunch. I was so proud to be able to buy a bottle of water on my own today! It certainly puts things in perspective.

I have to say, this place is absolutely amazing. The experiences I have had in just one week make it feel like I have been here an eternity – in a good way. I have only begun to touch on them here. More soon…

5 comments:

AMT said...

Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing this. I have been wondering about you and hoping that all is going well. It does look like you are on quite the adventure.

I look forward to the next update! Know that someone in Canada is thinking of you...

Lots of love to you from Mike and me!

Heidi said...

I'm with Amber--it is so exciting to read these updates and learn that things are going well. I love the little details you've included and can't wait for more.

And keep an eye out for letter(s) from me to you!

Sherry said...

Just got your info from your mom and read every bit! How exciting and interesting...and it has only just begun! It appears that you got your verbal skills from Suzanne...nice job! Looking forward to receiving updates, Jane. Many blessings.

Anonymous said...

This is so exciting! Thank you for sharing. You have a knack for description - and comedy!

Doug and I send our love and our greetings to you and your host family.

Anonymous said...

Hi Jane
It's your cousin Peggy in Michigan - Mom (Aunt Mary) sent over your blog link.
Wow! It must be amazing - thanks so much for taking the time to post this. You are in our thoughts and prayers!